Hurray! Forty Four is open again! Caroline Clark looks back at the wonderful meal she had there, just before lockdown.
Leonard Kola, chef and owner, has created a classy restaurant with his experience from Redmonds, La Trompette, and Rock & Rose put to great use with an array of classic imaginative Asian & modern European dishes. We were warmly welcomed by Leo and team who opened Forty Four almost a year ago.
My son George joined me on a Sunday evening, always happy to eat out, and with discerning taste buds he makes a good reviewer. The restaurant is stylish and relaxed and even though it was Sunday evening there was a steady flow of tables, including families, creating a sociable vibe.
George’s salt and pepper squid (£7.25) was seriously good, tender with a crispy coating and home-made sweet chilli sauce – a cut above the norm. My sesame seared tuna (£8.55) came Japanese style, with fresh tangy ginger soy and the bite of wasabi. The tuna melted in the mouth and I loved the toasted sesame seed flavour coming through. My glass of Chilean Sauvignon (£6.00) was a good match. There were many tempting mains, but I kept the Japanese theme going with Blackened Miso Cod Fillet (£15.95), beautifully presented with zingy citrus fennel, pickled ginger, grilled broccoli and delicious yuzu sauce, the cod so tender it fell apart and the Miso flavour divine. A glass of Italian Sospiro Sangiovese (£5.65) set this off perfectly. George went for a favourite – cornfed chicken Milanese with fresh parmesan shavings and rocket (£13.95) and a side of chips (£2.95). The chicken was succulent and a delicious Italian classic.
Desserts were calling, with George going for the showstopper chocolate dome filled with honeycomb ice cream, all melted with a hot salted caramel sauce (£6.95). It looked incredible and, in his words, ‘a perfect mix of dark and milk chocolate without being too rich!’. Sadly, I wasn’t allowed to taste. My raspberry frangipane tart with mango sorbet (£5.95), with a glass of the indulgent Garonelles Sauternes (£7.50), did not disappoint.
This gem of a restaurant is also open for weekday lunches. With light options, this is more of a treat than a café, and with well-spaced tables the smart dining room is perfect for a discreet business lunch, too. With a children’s menu and fresh seasonal dishes this really is a great addition to East Sheen.
44 Sheen Lane, SW14 8LP
Bookings: 020 8878 7600
fortyfourrestaurant.co.uk
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