From traditional wooden boards to soft carpet, funky rubber to classic stone, flooring is fundamental to the look and feel of a room, writes Katherine Sorrell
Flooring must be practical. For the hall and probably the living room, too, the toughest, most durable flooring is best, while a more delicate type will be fine in a spare bedroom.
For kitchens, bathrooms, utility rooms and conservatories, consider how well it will withstand spills, splashes and general humidity.
Timber
Beautiful and hard-wearing, timber floorboards are available in a range of colours and patterns. It is often possible to recondition an existing wood floor by mending or replacing damaged boards and sanding carefully, then finishing it with oil, wax or lacquer. If not, choose new hardwood from an environmentally friendly source or seek out recycled boards from an architectural salvage yard – these have the advantage of years of beautiful patina.
If you are renovating, the simplest and cheapest option is often simply to sand back the boards that are already there. Not every floor is worth sanding, however. The effort of removing copious amounts of nails may be too much, or the floor may be riddled with woodworm, be too uneven, or made of such poor quality wood, that replacing would actually be better.
If you have a large expanse of floor to sand, it may be best to get in the professionals. If you are planning to sand yourself, the first job is to mend or replace any boards that are damaged, hopefully with matching second hand boards (if you use new boards you will have to stain them later to match). Make sure you hammer down protruding nail heads before you start sanding. A professional will know exactly what needs to be done to get your floor looking its best before they start.
If you are replacing floors, the main choice you’ll be faced with is between solid wood, engineered wood and laminate.
Solid wood is just that – whatever type of wood it is goes all the way through, so it looks entirely natural and can be sanded again and again. It’s available in the form of boards, strips (less than 10cm wide), blocks (extremely strong, laid in patterns such as herringbone and basket weave) and parquet (like blocks, but thinner).
Engineered wood (sometimes called multi-layer or, confusingly, laminated) is made from layers of solid timber or a veneer of solid
timber on top of MDF, plywood, chipboard or softwood, with a balancing veneer beneath. Most are made up of either three or five layers, cross-bonded for greater stability.
A top layer of at least 5mm allows for limited sanding if necessary.
Laminates generally comprise a resin-impregnated decorative paper surface layer (with photographs of real wood) bonded to a thin MDF or chipboard core. With cheap versions it’s easy to spot the pattern repeat and they’re not awfully durable, but more expensive versions are incredibly tough and come with long guarantees.
Timber floors are given ‘grades’ describing their appearance (nothing to do with quality or durability). They vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but are often called ‘select’, ‘natural’ and ‘rustic’ or ‘country’. As you might imagine, they therefore range from very even in colour and grain to rather gnarled and knotty. ‘Rustic’ grades are the cheapest and ‘select’ the most expensive.
Carpet
Soft, warm and quiet underfoot, carpet comes in two main types: woven, which is harder-wearing and more expensive, and tufted, the durability of which is related to its pile height and density. Carpets are classified for light, moderate, general, heavy and
extra-heavy domestic use. Select a tough carpet for a hallway: perhaps an 80:20 (wool:nylon) twist classified for heavy domestic, while for a living room a combination of a luxury look with a robust performance, such as a loop or velvet pile, would be best. A spare bedroom carpet could be more delicate – a velvet or Saxony classified for light domestic use, for example. For a seamless look, lay carpet suitable for general use throughout. Carpets are inadvisable in kitchens and bathrooms.
Natural fibres
In a wide range of colours and weaves, sisal, coir, seagrass, rush and jute are warm and soundproof and, often, good value for money. The rougher the surface, the more hard-wearing it will be – so sisal and coir may feel uncomfortable underfoot at first. Jute has the softest feel, but is the least durable. A stain inhibitor is advisable.
Hard surfaces
Sandstone, limestone, granite, marble and terrazzo are expensive floorings that last a lifetime and have a beautiful, individual grain and patina. In areas that might become wet and slippery choose a version that is matt or slightly textured – sanded for a rough finish, or riven for an attractive, hand-split effect. Ceramic tiles are heat- and water-resistant, hard-wearing and low maintenance. They vary widely in price and come in a vast array of shapes, sizes and designs. Unglazed terracotta tiles (or quarry tiles) are rugged and non-slip.
Sheet flooring
Softer and warmer than stone or timber, sheet floor coverings – vinyl, linoleum and cork – are relatively inexpensive and very easy to clean. Lino is a traditional material made
from natural ingredients, while vinyl is a PVC-based man-made material, which comes in a huge range of textures and patterns.
Cork is hard-wearing, resilient to water and offers an interesting, natural look. Rubber, good-looking, practical and tactile, is available in smooth or textured designs, the latter ideal for bathrooms. Rubber floors should be laid professionally.
Katherine Sorrell is the author
17 books on design and interiors